When in New Orleans’ French Quarter, EAT!

“This. is. so. good,” I said, pausing only once to save the flailing parts of fried chicken skin (like I’m going to let the floor get some of this delicious goodness). The mister was too busy immersed in his own set of drumsticks to notice.

It was at this moment, I remembered what one of our friends said before departing: “New Orleans is all about the food.” Munching on soul food on a late-night crawl to Fiorella’s, I realized this friend was absolutely correct.

There’s something about NOLA that transcends other major cities. Perhaps it is the southern hospitality that is unquestionably second nature and absolutely contagious. Perhaps it is the fact that the beguilement on Bourbon spreads beyond that tiny street. Or, perhaps it is the fact that visitors are steeped in history, a culture that is so proportionately exclusive to New Orleans. One thing’s for sure, just about every block of New Orleans is consumed in food, and we were about to participate in one seriously awesome food crawl—French Quarter-style!


Jackson Square

Jackson Square Jackson Square

 

The first stop on our crawl was Jackson Square, a historical park in the French Quarter renamed after Andrew Jackson. Throughout the park, visitors sipped on adult slushees (ie: boozy daiquiries), and it was here that we stepped into a very important part of New Orleans culture: the never-ending party. Even in front of the church, there was an air of fun, a coalesce of piety meeting play, and the realization that I needed to get me one of those slushees.


Gazebo

Boudin Balls at Gazebo Boudin Balls at Gazebo

 

Gazebo, an outdoor restaurant, encompasses the conventional concept of a proper New Orleans diner. A jazz band played while we dined outdoors and munched on Boudin Balls, popcorn shrimp and a cup of sausage gumbo. Boudin balls are battered, deep-fried sausage in the shape of a ball. It’s served with tartar sauce, but I think it tastes best with mustard. The sausage gumbo was delicious with a lightly salted, grilled taste. Prices weren’t exhorbitant either.


Café Du Monde

Beignets at Cafe de Monde Beignets at Cafe de Monde

 

Nothing quite peppers an afternoon cajun jaunt better than sweets. We backtracked just a small block back to Jackson Square to visit Cafe du Monde. The cafe is the oldest coffee establishment in New Orleans and is famous for its beignets and cafe au lait. To put it simply, the beignets are amazing. The squared French donuts are made to-order, are received piping hot and they’re basked in copious amounts of crack—I mean, powdered sugar.

There are two ways to enjoy Cafe du Monde: you can either acquire a seat on a first-come-first-serve basis, or you can wait in the takeout line. Waiting in a line to be seated is not necessary. We waited in the takeout for about 20 minutes and then proceeded to take our treasures to nearby Mississippi River to enjoy our food and the beautiful view.


Mississippi River

Steamboat on the Mississippi River Steamboat on the Mississippi River

 

The Mississippi, that mass of gently flowing water, and historically a place for trade, lies right next to the French Quarter. From the boardwalk, it looks as big as the Pacific Coast, but much calmer. Despite it being a Saturday at about 1:00 pm, there were very few people traipsing along the shores of the Mississippi which was perfect for our afternoon snack of beignets and coffee.

There is only one teeny downside to snacking along the shore: the winds pick up a little along the Mississippi. Now, normally, this isn’t much of a problem. But, as mentioned before, the beignets are doused in powdered sugar. Now, I don’t have much of a problem with taking some of that sugar home all over my pants, but I’m pretty sure the dude downwind from us may.


French Market

Nuts at the French Market Wondernuts! Getchya hot wondernuts here! (some food from the French Market)

 

The French Market is fabulously everything but French. Nowhere in that small, canopy-covered outdoor market was there even a hint of a baguette, une tranche of frommage or a taste of champagne. There was, however, champagne’s Creole cousin: the daiquiri.

From fresh fruits, veggies and hot peanuts, to trinkets, to cajun and seafood, we were absolutely enamored. That is, until I saw someone spit his chewing tobacco with the utmost precision into an invisible spitoon in front of him. Ladies and gentlemen, we’re from Los Angeles. I think I’ve only once witnessed the sight of someone spitting his tabackee, and that was at a seedy biker bar in Upland. So much for trying out some hot peanuts…


“Where’s my Bourbon?”

Bourbon Street Bourbon Street

 

Remember when you used to go to 7/11 and get a slushee and you would think, “this would be a whole helluva lot better with some rum”?

You’re right, I’ve never thought that either. But, that’s what the ever-popular hurricane drink of Bourbon Street tasted like, a huge kick in the rum with some crushed, flavored ice on the side.

The saying “It’s five o’ clock somewhere” has been a personal mantra on both sides of the family (Mexican and Irish, there’s nowhere to go but join the downward spiral). It’s possible that this same saying was plastered all over the walls of bars on Bourbon Street at one time because at 3:00 pm, there was absolutely no sign of the party letting up.

We made a few trips back to Bourbon Street and at one point, we watched a wedding processional complete with a band. Not knowing that wedding parades get hosted by police in New Orleans, just like a funeral would in California (or that wedding parties could even have a parade), I immediately blurted out: “Wow, this is like a funeral but happier,” to which the mister added: “it is a funeral…for the groom…”


Acme Oyster Company

Oysters at Acme Oyster Co. Oysters at Acme Oyster Co.

 

“What’ll you have, baby?” beckoned our waitress. If there is one thing that sets apart the eating experience in New Orleans from the rest of the country, it’s those four words. Waitressing is not an easy job. At times, it’s like a mother having to deal with the pangs of adolescence: picky eaters, cranky complainers and very little gratitude. But, it was that special attention and that hospitality that made the dining experience so much fun.

The line outside Acme Oyster House was long, at about 45 minutes and was made equally as frustrating since they didn’t take reservations. But, we were able to shorten that wait time to 10 minutes by accepting bar seating.

We ordered fresh oysters, which were still adorably sandy outside the shell and were extremely fresh. We also ordered a Peacemaker Po’ Boy, which is 1/3 soft-shell crab, 1/3 fried oyster and 1/3 popcorn shrimp. The bread was soft and spongy, very fresh and light-tasting. We also ordered the rice and red beans Poopa served in a bread bowl with a split grilled sausage.

Poopa Poopa: Doesn’t taste poopy at all.

 


Fiorella’s

Fried Chicken at Fiorella's. Fried Chicken at Fiorella’s.

 

With only two full days in New Orleans, we had little time to soak up all the delicious food in the area. Southern food is best enjoyed piping hot and fresh and our waiter made sure to tell us that the wait time for our order might be long. The wait only made our food much more tantalizing. The chicken was fried to perfection, the mashed potatoes were like melted butter with gravy and the red beans and rice was extremely filling. As we happily munched on our food, part of me wished it would never end.

Our waiter was also very friendly. He had lived all over the United States, but found that New Orleans was his favorite city, not just for the history and the food, but for the natural friendliness in the city. According to him, no other place felt as homey as NOLA. We would absolutely have to agree with that.

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2 responses

  • I so love New Orleans. One of the best meals I have ever eaten was standing up in the Acme Oyster House. Don’t forget to go way down on Bourbon Street, lots of great food and fun once you get away from the really touristy stuff.

    • oh most definitely! We loved Acme Oyster House. The oysters were extremely fresh and the food was fantastic. We loved our bartender/waitress too. She was so friendly and awesome. =)


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